I think this is one of the best dishes in the Classic French Cuisine repertoire. This dish is amazing with any kind of chicken but if you can lay your hands on a young heritage breed rooster of about 28 weeks of age do so. Depending on the breed the meat can be very dark and very rich. I like this kind of chicken over the run of the mill Cornish Rock meat bird. It has character, has a different flavor depending on the kind of bird and for me is a welcome change.
1 rooster or fryer 3 1/2 pounds, cut into quarters, wings and back removed and reserved
1 bottle burgundy or pinot noir
2 onions, trimmed, peeled and quarted
2 carrots, scrubbed, peeled and cut into 1 inch hunks
2 celery stalks, trimmed, washed and cut into 1 inch hunks
1 leek, white and light green part only, trimmed, rinsed and halved lenghtwise
6 sprigs fresh thyme
5 sprigs curly leaf parsley
5 cups rich goose, duck or chicken stock
2 1/2 tablespoons tomato paste
kosher salt and fresh ground pepper
a parchment round
For the garnish:
8 carrots, peeled and trimmed
8 boiling or pearl onions, peeled and trimmed
a handful of mushrooms, royal trumpet, crimini or white
8 oz. piece of unsmoked slab bacon or pancetta
A parchment round, it should fit inside the pot snuggly
your favorite mashed potatoes or buttered egg noodles
1. Preheat the oven to 325˚ F. Season the chicken on all sides with salt and pepper. Place a heavy bottomed pot large enough to hold the chicken so you can easily brown it on all sides over medium high heat and add enough clarified butter to coat the bottom of the pan.
2. Add the chicken quarters and brown them nicely on all sides. Take your time, adjust the heat lower if necessary but brown it deeply without burning it. This will pay off in flavor later. Once the chicken is brown remove it to a plate.
4. Add the wings, back onions, celery, carrots and leek. Brown them lightly.
5. Deglaze the pan with the wine. Add the thyme and parsley and let the wine bubble away the alcohol and begin to reduce. Season the pot with a heavy pinch of salt and a few grinds of pepper. Not to much though you are going to reduce the sauce and as it reduces it will get saltier.
6. Tuck the chicken quarter back into the pot. Add the stock and tomato paste. Bring the whole thing to a boil and reduce the heat to a simmer.
7. Place the parchment round onto the surface of the stew then put the lid on and tuck the whole thing into the preheated oven.
8. Set a time for 1 1/2 hours making sure after 45 minutes to check and turn the chicken. Now is the time to make your mashed potatoes but be prepared to keep them warm. I find an ad hoc double broiler works well for this.
9. After 45 minutes to an hour has passed place a large saute pan over high heat. Add enough butter to coat the bottom of the pan and then add a little more. The mushrooms will soak the fat up like a sponge and you want them to do so. Once the pan is near smoking hot add the mushrooms. Season them with salt and pepper and brown them.
10. Remove the mushrooms to a plate and then add the carrots and pearl onions. Swirl them around in the pan. Add the slab bacon and enough water to just cover the carrots but not the bacon. You want the bacon to braise on the bottom but get crisp on the top so don’t cover it completely. Season the with salt and pepper.
11. Bring the water to a boil and then slide it into the oven along side the chicken.
12. Once the chicken is tender but firm, not falling off the bone, remove the pot from the oven, then remove the chicken to the plate you used before and strain the stock into a bowl. Discard the solids and defat the stock. Wipe out the pot if you need to and then add the stock back to the pan.
13. Using pot holders, remember the pot just came out of the oven, place the pot with the stock over high heat and reduce the sauce to your desired thickness. Taste and season appropriately. If it reduces to much just add a little water back to the pan.
14. Add the chicken back to the pot and turn it to coat it with the sauce and to rewarm it along with the mushrooms.
15. Check the carrots and pearl onions to see if they are done. If so remove them from the oven. Slice the bacon into four pieces.
16. Plate it up and serve.